Letters from Tokyo #8 Earthquake!
Some weeks, it doesn’t feel right to write something new.
Last week marked the 15th anniversary of March 11th 2011, when Japan experienced one of the most powerful earthquakes ever recorded. I was living in Tokyo at the time.
What follows is something I wrote five days later, on March 16th. I’ve left it largely unchanged.
It’s not polished. It wasn’t written with any audience in mind — just a personal record, written in the immediate aftermath.
Most of my Letters from Tokyo look back, trying to understand Japan with the benefit of time and distance.
This doesn’t. It’s a raw, real-time account of that day.
Friday 11th March 2011, a day that rocked an entire nation and sent shock waves around the world, both literally and figuratively. It is a day that will be remembered with sorrow and awe. It was a day that many knew would come, and despite nonchalance and bravado, everybody here feared it.
It was the Big One. The one that would either prove or disprove the preparedness of a nation, the strength of a people and the integrity of its engineering; the one that would destroy an entire city and kill tens of thousands of people, and leave many more homeless.
Before this, I had thought of big earthquakes as 7 on the Richter scale. I had experienced 4 or even 5, but never 6 and I never seriously thought I would see a 9! Here in Tokyo the ground shook at about 7.9, but up around the epicenter they had it a whole lot worse.
Even now, five days later, the ground still rumbles with numbing, yet frightening regularity, and though very slight compared to the Big One, I was running for the stairs just last night. I am emotionally exhausted, and physically tired. I just want it to be over!
So, what was it like, The Big One?
One word: terrifying…
It started out regularly enough. I was working at home, getting ready to make a video for my website. Ayako, my wife, was working on the computer, and Setsuko, my sister-in-law, was watching T.V. I didn't notice it at first. Ayako shouted "earthquake!" But I wasn't so sure, “really?"
Then Setsuko, noticed, "earthquake!" I could feel it by now, but I was not worried, we had had one just the previous morning, very small, nothing to get excited about, I laughed it off,"don't worry, it's just a minor one."
Suddenly, as if to prove it was the real thing, the whole apartment block jolted violently! "My God! It is a big one"
Setsuko gave me a knowing look as if to say, "I told you so"!
At that moment the power of the quake surged into over drive, and the earth seemed to let out a strange growl, as if a monster had been woken from its slumber, and Setsuko's look turned to one of horror... Another jolt, and another surge of power sent ornaments flying and crashing to pieces on the floor; it just got bigger and bigger.
The ceiling lights were swinging violently, the TV was wobbling dangerously, and the cutlery and crockery were making a hell of a din in the kitchen cupboards. A picture frame in the entrance fell and smashed on the floor. Ayako rushed in to the kitchen to try to stop the free-standing cabinets from toppling over, and Setsuko was holding on to the TV. I was at a loss. What to hold on to? Where to stand? Setsuko made for the table, and I motioned to stay by the support columns - thinking there was no place stronger in our apartment. Ayako looked at me, "hold on to something!”
Then I saw it. And I will never forget it; something that will stay with me until my dying day. It was then that I knew that this was The Big One.
From our apartment, we have a nice view over most of Tokyo, as far as the eye can see, and on a clear night we often like to stand at the window and soak up a magical view with a glass of wine, soft lighting and pleasant company.
However, today, that was the last thing I wanted to do. As far as the eye could see, every single building was swaying, jolting, bending and twisting. The buildings on the road that leads away from my apartment block looked like they were built on a bouncy castle, such was the randomness of the shaking, swaying twisting and jolting. Even Tokyo Sky Tree, which stands on the horizon at over 600 meters tall, could be seen swaying and jolting.
It was absolutely terrifying.
I had never been so afraid in my life. I was numbed. I dropped to one knee, supporting myself between the support column and the door frame. My legs started to shake involuntarily. A prayer rolled off my tongue.
I am not a particularly religious, and have not been to a church service for several years, much less said a prayer. But out it came "Jesus, keep me safe!"
Just then, the door bell went! My wife and I looked at each other agape.
"Who the hell is that at a time like this?! The local courier company is very dedicated, but this was ridiculous.
I stumbled to the door, the creaking of the building loud, and frightening. It was my neighbour. First time I had ever met her. Funnily we didn't bother with any greeting.
"Kowaii..." She said,
"Yes, it is very scary, but don't worry," I said, with as much confidence as I could muster,
"it will be over soon.”
She dropped to the floor in panic, so helpless... that was enough to wake me from my self-involved fear.
"Ayako, Setsuko, we're getting out now!
"No we should stay here!"
"Stair well, now!”
I knew this to be the strongest part of any building.
The building seemed to groan, louder. Other people were leaving their apartments at this point.
"Ayako, Setsuko, now!"
This time they did not hesitate. We ran to the stairwell, to find that many others had the same idea.
The building was moaning, creaking and the sounds of cracking plaster were all around us. I could not believe how long this thing had lasted so far. Usually they last about 30 to 60 seconds, but by now we were approaching something like 6 minutes! Bloody Hell!!
We live on the 16th floor, of a 38-storey building, and usually the thought of taking the stairs up or down had never crossed our minds. We took the elevators for granted. Not today!
16, 15, 14, the building continued to shake, plaster continued to fall. Legs kept moving, strangely calm, starting to take control of an uncontrollable situation.
13,12,11, still shaking. More people joined us on the stairs.
10, 9, 8 some evidence of damage to the wall encasing the stairs; but ok, the frame of the stair well is constructed from steel girders and they are holding up fine.
7,6,5, all I could hear now were the footsteps of people on the stairs. I dared to stop and listen. Was it, could it be over? Keep moving!
4,3,2 and finally 1!
The lobby was filled with people, in various states of panic. But the shaking had stopped
The ground was still... And, for the time being at least, we were safe.
Originally written on March 16, 2011.
Fifteen years later, I and everyone who lived this experience still remembers exactly how it felt.
Sincerely
Ross Harrison - A Tokyo-based photographer documenting a more authentic Japan beyond social media posts and postcards.